Drop-Front Box: Tabbed-Front Style
The purpose of the re-housing project is to get objects out of non-archival materials that were used following a major earthquake into housings that will keep the objects dust-free, viewable on the shelf, and to provide ease of viewing with limited or no handling when used for classes.
Angela Yvarra McGrew
San Francisco Bay Area
Photo Credits: Angela Yvarra McGrew
The tabbed drop front box is drawn like a regular box with creases to allow the flaps to wrap around the sides and tab into slots. [Fig. 1]
This design is one of two that was used during a major rehousing project. The other Drop-Front Box – No-Glue Folded-Tab Style is also available on STASH.
Materials, Tools & Supplies
- B-Flute (1/8”) or E-Flute (1/16”) corrugated board
- Box cutter
- Bone creaser
- Wall mounted board cutter – Optional
- Gridded ruler – Optional
- ¼” wide oblong 1.75″ leather punch available from C.S. Osborne [Fig. 2]- Optional
1. Start with the standard box template [Fig. 3]
2. Modify the box Layout modified for tabbed drop-front [Fig. 4]
3. Add the tabs to the flaps [Fig. 5]. The tabs should be anywhere from ¾” to an inch long. If you are using a leather punch to make the slots then the width should equal your punch. Tip: If using the leather punch to cut the slots a 2 lb sledgehammer on wood is recommended as is working on the floor as a regular table top may not be sturdy enough.
4. To find where to place the slots, fold the flap into place and mark on either side of the tab with a pencil. The slot will be 1/4 “ wide and the hole will be under the tab side, so lightly draw an arrow on the box to show you which way to cut. [Fig. 6]
5. As with the folded-tab box these boxes can have one side drop down [Figs. 7-10].
7. Or two-sided, to make an “exploding” box. If all fours sides have slots the tabs should be made a little longer [Figs. 11-12].